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While replacing my router at home by a MikroTik CCR1036-8G-2S+ router I also wanted to uplink my Ubiquity switch using a Multimode (OM3) connection.

Is fiber really needed? Not really, but it saved me an additional RJ45 port on my switch which allows me to connect more.

Link up, down, up, down

The link between my MikroTik router and Unifi switch kept going up and down. In the logs on my MikroTik and Unifi switch I saw:

<14> May 26 19:19:07 SwitchPatchkast DOT1S[dot1s_task]: dot1s_sm.c(314) 454679 %% Port (26) inst(0) role changing from ROLE_DESIGNATED to ROLE_DISABLED
<14> May 26 19:19:07 SwitchPatchkast DOT1S[dot1s_task]: dot1s_sm.c(314) 454677 %% Port (26) inst(0) role changing from ROLE_DISABLED to ROLE_DESIGNATED
<13> May 26 19:19:07 SwitchPatchkast TRAPMGR[trapTask]: traputil.c(743) 454676 %% Link Up: 0/26
<14> May 26 19:18:58 SwitchPatchkast DOT1S[dot1s_task]: dot1s_sm.c(314) 454668 %% Port (26) inst(0) role changing from ROLE_DESIGNATED to ROLE_DISABLED
<13> May 26 19:18:58 SwitchPatchkast TRAPMGR[trapTask]: traputil.c(743) 454667 %% Link Down: 0/26

19:25:12 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link up (speed 1G, full duplex)
19:25:20 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link down
19:25:21 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link up (speed 1G, full duplex)
19:25:29 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link down
19:25:30 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link up (speed 1G, full duplex)
19:28:48 interface,info sfp-sfpplus1 link down

I am using optics from FlexOptix which I programmed to MikroTik and Ubiquity using their programmer. (We have those at work).

Auto negotiation

After trying many things it turned out that turning off Auto Negotation on both the switch and the router resolved the issue.

On the switch I turned it off via the UI of the Unifi Controller and forced it to 1000 FDX.

On the router I turned it off using the MikroTik CLI:

[admin@router] > /interface ethernet export
/interface ethernet
set [ find default-name=sfp-sfpplus1 ] advertise=1000M-full auto-negotiation=no speed=1Gbps
set [ find default-name=sfp-sfpplus2 ] advertise=1000M-full speed=1Gbps
[admin@router] >

sfp-sfpplus1 is the interface I am using for the connection to my Unifi switch.

Link is now online! Below is a picture of my 19″ rack at home.

The CAN bus of a Tesla vehicle can show some interesting information about the state of different components in the vehicle.

Using a CAN bus cable, Bluetooth adapter and a App on your mobile phone you can gain much more insight on your Tesla vehicle.

I own two Tesla vehicles:

• S85 from September 2013 (pre face-lift)
• S100D from September 2018

Somewhere around 2015 Tesla switched to a different connector for the CAN bus so I needed two different cables. I bought my cables in Germany at EMDS.

• Bluetooth OBD dongle
• Cable for S85
• Cable for S100D (also works on Model X)

EMDS also sells a cable for Model 3. I haven’t used this one as I don’t own a Model 3.

The CAN bus connector in a Model S can be found under the MCU’s main screen in the vehicle. You need to pull down the ‘chubby’ and there you will find the connector:

I am using the TM-Spy app on iOS for reading the values on my iPhone.

For Android there is Scan My Tesla which also seems to be a very good app. I don’t have an Android device, so I was not able to test it.

I was mainly looking for these values:

• Usable Full
• DC Charge Total
• AC Charge Total

After 253.543km of driving my battery has 75.6kWh of remaining capacity where this was ~81kWh when it was new. (The 85kWh battery was actually a 81kWh battery….)

Tesla also throttles a vehicle’s SuperCharging capabilities after more than X amount (I don’t know the exact value) of DC charging. My car seems to be affected as I SuperCharged a lot.

Charge Total is not a total sum of AC+DC, but from what I’ve read early firmwares did not count AC and DC charging in different values.

Interesting information though! I encourage everybody to use this information to gather more information about their vehicle’s state.

Happy exploring!

Tesla’s vehicles are awesome. I own a S85 from 2013 and a S100D from 2018. I’ve driven 260.000km and 70.000km with these two vehicles and I love it.

There is however a design flaw in the early Tesla models which can become a very expensive reparation if not performed in time.

Version of of the MCU (Media Control Unit) which was installed up until early 2018 in Tesla S/X runs and is a ticking time bomb.

The problem is the Flash Memory (eMMC) which holds the Operating System of the computer. This wears out over time due to writing data to it.

Writing happens when you use the car. It caches Spotify, Google Maps and many more things. Even when the car is parked the MCU stays running and writes to the eMMC chip.

Eventually this chip will wear out. Before it does it becomes very slow and this results in the MCU becoming super sluggish, unresponsive, the screen reboots at random moments, bluetooth issues, etc, etc.

A lot has been written about this, so I won’t write to much. Short: Tesla will charge you around 2000 EUR/USD for a new MCU.

I choose to replace this eMMC chip myself and this was a lot cheaper! Total cost was <500 EUR.

Around the world there are a couple of companies doing these replacements. I replaced my eMMC chip together with Loek from Laadkabelwinke.nl (Netherlands): https://www.laadkabelwinkel.nl/tesla-mcu1-emmc-vervangen-reparatie

On Tesla Motors Club there are various topics about these replacements, one for example: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/preventive-emmc-replacement-on-mcu1.152489/

I highly recommend everybody with a Model S/X to replace this eMMC chip before it fails.

The chip will wear out and this causes all kinds of problems. I can’t stress this enough. Replace the chip before it’s too late!

In Europe I would recommend to go to Laadkabelwinkel.nl and have them replace the chip.

Enjoy your Tesla!